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Installed the transom and will start fitting the stringers in next. I plan to tie the stringers into the transom and glass them all together.

Looking good.

Keep the pictures coming.

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Got a nice box of core on the front porch today. Looks like real nice stuff that I got from chad lee at icore composites mailto:chadlee@icorecomposites.com

Keep the pictures coming. Looks great. Bill

Since it was sunny and 50* this weekend, decided to open the doors, fire up some fans and let the itchy stuff fly.

Why is the transom sticking up so high? I keep looking at it and just HAD to ask.

One thing I might suggest. Resin coat the wood and let dry before glassing to it. I've had situations where the wood (plywood AND balsa) un coated (primed) would suck the resin out of the fiberglass leaving a dry lay-up. Little white spots show up as it's drying.

I'll add a splash of acetone to the resin so it will soak in the wood more before it dries. Our local boat builder taught me this trick.




I absolutely LOVE the cleanliness of your shop!!!

Ron, first off I want to THANK YOU for the insperation you gave me to attempt this project by the postings of your very detailed restoration. As you can see, I had the same thoughts of "wicking" as you did. My biggest concern was the end grains, but coated it all. Last nite I tack welded my first of 4 stringers.

The reason that I currently have the transon high is this: when I first hung my v6 on the transom along with the jackplate, to get the propshaft even with the bottom, I was almost at the height limits of my jackplate. I posted questions on S&F about it and found most folks don't run it much lower than even. Once I get the deck remounted, I plan to drill the transom holes in a position that puts the engine in it's neutral height with the propshaft even. This way I can go down for take off and should have plenty of lift left to go above the bottom. If you understand what i'm explaining, do you think this is a good idea. I don't want to be hasty about drilling/cutting...hence the reason it is still uncut. Any input is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Joe

Joe, I ran into that problem with my Viper. Used a template from the dealer to drill the holes. I run with the jack full up and the motor mounted as high as possible on the jack. See?

This gets the propshaft about 1/2" below the pad. Not optimum for top speed BUT it's safe and plenty fast.

Just noticed your stringer is on the hull skin. It should be on the core. The core spreads the load over the hull.
Are you considering removing the splashwell? A flat rear deck is much easier to glass to the transom but slowdowns may get you wet due to the ramping effect.

Hey Ron, Thats one way to tow your boat.

I had thought about going up higher with my transom (2") but have decided not to. Mostly cause once you bolt the motor up higher then it raises the center of gravity and puts much more stress on the transom. While it is a great idea, and it has been done (Bennie did it on his Viper) before many times, I just think the added stress on the transom is not worth it to me. And yes, I am tieing my stingers into my transom as well.

Im just thinking out loud again here so...

Thanks for checking that transom height Ron. I'm glad I gave myself a little extra wood. Once I get it drilled i'll trim off the extra. I do plan to run stringers down the pad also. My plan is to make it a 2-seater center streer boat.

I've thought about the splashwell arrangement versus the flat deck. There's alot of glass in that splashwell with alot of different angles, that's a heck of alot of strength. Keep a watch, keeping the current splashwell isn't going to be a problem, but rather beneficial.