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Finally got a chance to post a picture of the stringers. So many questions and so little knowledge. I did read the threads about re-core and have a few questions. What happens if the core fails? On the Vulture, is the core only in the middle under the stringers or is it on both sides of the stringers and/or underneath them? It looks like someone added and extra board to the outside of the stringers and glassed and screwed them in. I don't know enough to be sure. I'd love to skip the core and stringer replace if possible. This is looking forward. The stringers were resined together in the middle in the front and back ends. It looked redone, but again not sure. Please advise. Bill

You are correct, someone added s second set of stringers. The core in the pad between the stringers looks awfully dark, it should be a light color if it's dry.

The core starts in the core and goes up under the boxes on the sides, at least I'm pretty sure.

The outer layer of glass is real thin and with a rotten core it will flex and at some point break. This could cause anything from a crack in the bottom to a large chunk actually coming out and causing the boat to hook fast then sink.

I would drill into the core in a couple spots to see if it's wet, any water in in will cause it to rot. I found some old bulsa from the old body shop at work and it had marks on it like it was dripped on. where all the spots were the bulsa would just crumble apart. I have no idea how long they were up there but it amazed me how it just came apart.

What happens if the core fails?

This could cause anything from a crack in the bottom to a large chunk actually coming out and causing the boat to hook fast then sink.

An extreme case of delaminationon a Vegas XT. This came from a thread @S&F. The owner had just replaced the floor but he thought the core looked ok.

That can ruin your day realy quick.

Thanks everyone for your advise and pictures. Looks like I'll be learning more than I thought. Since I truly am a rookie, I'll have plenty of questions. I saw the links to the the fiberglass products link in Michigan. Is there something closer to me in South East Wisconsin that sells similar stuff? About how much does it cost to core a Vulture? Balsa and/or foam. How thick should the core be? I've seen the threads that say foam is more expensive. What is the best way to remove all the fiberglass by the stringers? Just chip away slowly? Some of the pictures I saw of streams that were already cleaned out were really smooth. Is that just a load of sanding to get it that way? Bill

Do I need to support the bottom of the boat before removing the core and stringers? It's on the original hydrostream trailer but is that enough support? do I need to build a craddle? Bill

Yes! I took mine off the trailer and set it on a flat plank and supported it at the chines. You don't want to distort the bottom. Especially the pad. I gutted it on the trailer and if you do it that way you'll see why it has to come off the trailer.
Rick.

VultureNo2 wrote: About how much does it cost to core a Vulture? Balsa and/or foam. How thick should the core be? I've seen the threads that say foam is more expensive. What is the best way to remove all the fiberglass by the stringers? Just chip away slowly? Some of the pictures I saw of streams that were already cleaned out were really smooth. Is that just a load of sanding to get it that way? Bill

On my viking the materials were about $1000.00. I just used poly for resin and foam 1/2 foam for the core. If you use bulsa, 1/2. Stringers are 1/2 real marine 5 layer ply. Same with floor and bulkheads. If you need a transom just laminate the ply togeather. To get the old stuff out, I used a 4 1/2 grinder with a cut off wheel on it. On the core cut through the laminate and peel it up an expose the core. If the cores rotten, it'll be easy to get off. I used a flat 8" shovel to scrape the core right up. If it's still solid, it'll be a lot more work. On mine there were a few spots where it was solid and I picked at it but ended up grinding it off. I've seen a lot of people poke holes in the bottom of these things hackin and pryin. Don't want that! After all the core and stringers are out, clean and prep the inside of the hull with a grinder and I used 36 grit sanding disc.(CAREFULLY) Thats when the itch begins. Wear a resperator and a tybek suit. If you have any ??? Feel free
Rick.

oops accidental repost. Daaa

Thanks CCRick, sounds like I have some long nights ahead of me. It will be worth it in the end though. Bill