Hydrostreamforums.com - The only dedicated Hydrostream forum

did you put those slices of 2x4 wood in the pad as a core replacement??? I don't know if that will be stronger or weaker, but its not recommended by many. And it will certainly be a lot heavier than balsa core

varmint1 wrote:I would leave a hole so any trapped water can run to the bilge area

[ Post made via iPhone ]

Thank-you so much for replying! I just want to confirm just to ensure there is no confusion. You are aware this is the front of the boat and not the back by the transom where the bilge pump would go. I appreciate your advice but just a bit nervous that I wasn't clear enough.

Thanks,
Bradley

transomstand wrote:"B" was the original design. The boats originally came with a rubber plug for that hole. Still have my plug, never made any sense to me, and never used it after the first month or two.

Thank-you so much for replying! I just want to confirm just to ensure there is no confusion. You are aware this is the front of the boat and not the back by the transom where the bilge pump would go. I appreciate your advice but just a bit nervous that I wasn't clear enough.

Thanks,
Bradley

Based on your advice do you see any reason to leave the hole in the back in the bilge pump box? It's almost like what they use in an aluminum boat. I guess if you intend to leave it out in the rain uncovered it is good so it will drain. What does everyone think?

aaron78viper wrote:did you put those slices of 2x4 wood in the pad as a core replacement??? I don't know if that will be stronger or weaker, but its not recommended by many. And it will certainly be a lot heavier than balsa core

What we are using is Sitka aircraft grade end grain spruce. I know that this is not what everyone else uses but based on the strength to weight ratio, all the other benefits we have found during our research, and if its good enough for an airplane we just thought we would try something different. If overall it weighs a bit more and we lose a couple of miles per hour we are comfortable with the additional strength that it offers. We will be using an Evinrude 140 2 stroke and we can't afford to buy something faster so were not expecting to set any records but it must be faster than the boat the way it was with the waterlogged and rotted core. We couldn't believe how fast it was then and are a little concerned how fast and how stable it will be when we are done.

Hope everyone doesn't disagree as we have already committed ourselves.

Thank-you,

Bradley

As long as its built to the safest standards the little weight difference won't be no problem. Safety is the number one priority

[ Post made via iPhone ]

bhbestcustoms wrote:
What we are using is Sitka aircraft grade end grain spruce. I know that this is not what everyone else uses but based on the strength to weight ratio, all the other benefits we have found during our research, and if its good enough for an airplane we just thought we would try something different. If overall it weighs a bit more and we lose a couple of miles per hour we are comfortable with the additional strength that it offers. We will be using an Evinrude 140 2 stroke and we can't afford to buy something faster so were not expecting to set any records but it must be faster than the boat the way it was with the waterlogged and rotted core. We couldn't believe how fast it was then and are a little concerned how fast and how stable it will be when we are done.

Hope everyone doesn't disagree as we have already committed ourselves.

Thank-you,

Bradley

No problem here. It's not my place to tell you how to do it. I am glad you know what you put in, and I find it interesting. How thick is that wood? Does it come precut to the desired thickness?

Pound for pound Balsa is the strongest core for your boat.

I used scored foam block in my old 79 vector it was strong I jumped waves and landed hard as possible to test it out and no issues its on the 3rd owner after I restored and still going strong