by silkeysak » Jun 06, 2010 9:51 pm
Hey man, what you're describing is a severe chinewalk. That tank and batteries forward is very likely the problem. The pivot point on these boats is about 12" forward of the transom. But don't worry, when you want to pull a skier drop down to a 19 pitch prop. Problem solved. You may also want to add some 6 degree negative wedges between the motor and jackplate. These cost about 45 bucks and can be found at Bob's machine shop. While on their website check out their nosecones AND a torque tab. The tab will get rid of torque feedback in the steering, and between the tab and cone you're stability at high speed will be like night and day. I have run a 16' checkmate w/200 rude and 18' action marine w/ 200 rude and with this setup the both tracked beautifully. The viking w/ 225 looper I'm currently putting together (will be in the water in about two weeks) will get the same treatment. I am fully confident in this arrangement. It took me almost two years with the checkmate to figure this out. They are notorious chinewalkers. By the way, those negative wedges give more negative trim for getting on plane. Because of the bowlift created by your hull design, you'll still have PLENTY of positive trim. At full throttle you want the boat as parallel to the water as you can get it but still keep it freely broke loose and on the back 12" or less of the pad. You'll have to get the feel by experience. You want the propthrust as close to parallel with the water as you can get it to get the max hp to the water. Show me a big roostertail and I'll show you an inexperienced driver. Unfortunately the local marina guys know little or nothing about setting up a fast modified v rig. Most of us (unless we were lucky) have had to learn the hard way, by trial and error. What sounds like the easy solution to a problem may open up another can of worms. You don't have to do much to fix your problem, but time behind the wheel and trial and error with motor height/ prop pitch etc. will pay off in the long run. Unfortunately that's the due you gotta pay if you want a fast stable ride. Good luck, happy to give my own humble opinion, for whatever it's worth. Some will agree, some won't, but it works for me without spending the big bucks. There is no better feeling than when you get it figured out on your own and the other guys eat your steam. Have a good one, I hope this helps.
Hey man, what you're describing is a severe chinewalk. That tank and batteries forward is very likely the problem. The pivot point on these boats is about 12" forward of the transom. But don't worry, when you want to pull a skier drop down to a 19 pitch prop. Problem solved. You may also want to add some 6 degree negative wedges between the motor and jackplate. These cost about 45 bucks and can be found at Bob's machine shop. While on their website check out their nosecones AND a torque tab. The tab will get rid of torque feedback in the steering, and between the tab and cone you're stability at high speed will be like night and day. I have run a 16' checkmate w/200 rude and 18' action marine w/ 200 rude and with this setup the both tracked beautifully. The viking w/ 225 looper I'm currently putting together (will be in the water in about two weeks) will get the same treatment. I am fully confident in this arrangement. It took me almost two years with the checkmate to figure this out. They are notorious chinewalkers. By the way, those negative wedges give more negative trim for getting on plane. Because of the bowlift created by your hull design, you'll still have PLENTY of positive trim. At full throttle you want the boat as parallel to the water as you can get it but still keep it freely broke loose and on the back 12" or less of the pad. You'll have to get the feel by experience. You want the propthrust as close to parallel with the water as you can get it to get the max hp to the water. Show me a big roostertail and I'll show you an inexperienced driver. Unfortunately the local marina guys know little or nothing about setting up a fast modified v rig. Most of us (unless we were lucky) have had to learn the hard way, by trial and error. What sounds like the easy solution to a problem may open up another can of worms. You don't have to do much to fix your problem, but time behind the wheel and trial and error with motor height/ prop pitch etc. will pay off in the long run. Unfortunately that's the due you gotta pay if you want a fast stable ride. Good luck, happy to give my own humble opinion, for whatever it's worth. Some will agree, some won't, but it works for me without spending the big bucks. There is no better feeling than when you get it figured out on your own and the other guys eat your steam. Have a good one, I hope this helps.
