1977 viper recore

[Hippie459MN]

As you can see by some of my pictures in my resto thread the stringers do go all the way back to the transom on my vulture. I am going to be adding knees to my stringers and tie into the transom and also for support when I fill in the splaswell. There is some crazy transom plate in there now that ties to the stringers with some really small knees (If you want to call em that) and I am running and will be running a 10" set back jack plate on mine. The knees should be close enough together that they wont get in the way of any mounting holes for a jackplate or motor.

[VultureNo2]

Thnaks Hippie. I saw that on yours. How are those knees attached? Do they go from the Jackplate bracket to the stringers? It looks like 77Viper just build up the wood from the stringers to attach to the transom and glassed it all together with the jackplate bracket in between. Yours looked more like someone mounted something to attach the jackplate bracket to the stringers with metal bracketing or something. I like the way Viper did it but am concerned that my back gas tank won't fit if I build it up like this. I'm almost done rebuilding my computer at home. Needed a new hard drive. All my pictures are on the old hard drive and on my camera. I will get around to posting my pictures on the WIP thread I have going as soon as I finish. Rather be working on the boat then the computer. Glad to hear you are getting ready to get going on yours after the holidays. I know we both need to get moving if we want to fly in the spring. Bill

[Hippie459MN]

Yes, Someone added that aluminum transom plate on there and it has tiny knees/braces that at bolted to the stingers. Not very good idea if you ask me. When I do redo my transom and stingers it will get a set of knees just like chet did that will also double as a support for the splashwell deck (Filling mine in also) to better support any weight. That inner transom support will end up getting recycled or something but will not be going back in and I am unsure if I am going to put outside one back on. Most people used them mainly to bandaid rotten transoms instead of getting them fixed properly.

From the factory though the stringers only go back to the drain plug area of the hull and there are no knees. I will be doing mine with a small notch so I can still fin my gas tank back a bit then build a rear seat again around the tank.

So many ideas I have, Now I just need to get to work on this thing. Make room for me down there Chet, Im coming!!!

[ccrick]

The fuel tank is the reason why I didn't go with knees on my stringers. I need to carry the fuel. Bill You'll be ok without knees. If you were going to hang a fire breathing 300 or something like that then you should. I need my boat probably like you to be a "family boat" so I know I need a back seat. JMO. Chets boat is going to be a balls to the walls racer with a fire breather on the back.
Rick.

[VultureNo2]

Rick - Thanks for the reality check. Love to be able to put a 225 on it though. How bad will the fibegglass get into the house if I work in the garage. How strong are the resin fumes? Trying to decide to work in the garaeg or find a place. I am kinda stuck on pulling the stringers, etc... until I make a decision on where to do it, right? Thanks for all the great advise and paperwork. I really can't wait to start. Hopefully real soon. Bill

[77viper]

Vulture, my original stringers ended under the floor bu the drain hole. Like Rick said this is going to be a race boat primarily, I have a vegas for a lake boat. I will not be able to fit a fuel tank under where the splash well was. I also tied the knees into the plate that goes where the splash well was. The knees are narrow enough that my bolt holes will be on the outside. I will get some more detailed pictures for ya.

As for the dust and fumes I don't think I would do it in a garage that is used daily. I ground some of mine in my shop and made one heck of a mess. The fumes will hang around for a couple days after and in my 2 stall garage it would make my eyes water after some time in there. If that is your only option I would seal the door to the house at least.

[VultureNo2]

Thanks for the good advise. I intended to seal the door, but am leaning toward finding a spot to work on it. I have a friend that owns a local airport and can find me some hanger spot, but it will mean 30 minute driving each way. Sounds like a better option anyway. Bill

[77viper]

I'm doing mine in one of our shop buildings that is 1/2 hour away. It's nice to go over there after work but it took a little planing when laminating. I have a dog at home so I can only work for about 3 hours after work but I try to get 8 hours in on the weekend. When I tore the old core out it was at my house and in my shop, that was nice to work on it then take a break in the house and if I needed anything like a snack but I acquired a couple more motors this summer so my shop is full.

[ccrick]

Hi Bill. You do know your boat is rated for more hp than 225 wthout knees. Just make sure your transom is solid. You'll be fine.

[VultureNo2]

Yes - Thanks Rick. So I just want to end the stringers short of the transom as they are right now? Also, what's the best way to get the existing transom out without damaging anything structural or the existing splashwell if I choose to replace it? I've done the rubber mallot test on the transom and it seems solid, yet I have some surface cracking along the edges of the jackplate bracket and along the back of the splashwell. I think that the jackplate was just tightened down too much and the cracks are not structural, but not sure. I chipped away at it and underneath does not seem to be soft or wet or cracked, but I'm still skeptical. Also, had some rusting just under one of the hoist hooks in back. Makes me think that some rotting has taken place in there. How can I be sure the transom is solid? I don't have a moisture meter to work with. Bill