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I got the boat flipped today.

It was way easier than I thought it would be I had 1 guy help and we had it over in 10 min.


The bottom has a lot of cracks in the gel so I started to grind them out, I will be filling them with marine tex, I got a good deal on a quart.


The bottom is pritty straight so it shouldn't take too long I hope to have it ready for paint in 2 weeks.

I was told resin by itself isn't water proof so that is why I gel coated the inside.

You do know Gell Coat isn't water proof either right? Its Lookin good, Makes me want to work on mine

Maple Leaf wrote:
You do know Gell Coat isn't water proof either right? Its Lookin good, Makes me want to work on mine

I will look into this a little further. Any progress on yours?

There was a repair on the keel so I ground down from the inside till I hit filler when I did the core. Then I put a couple extra layers of mat over the repair. Today I ground into the repair from the outside and from the looks it was a good thing.



I pulled this up with a screwdriver.


There was about 1/8" of what looked like body filler and about 1/4" of resin over the hull.

Owch. I hate to see what its gonna take to fix the outside bottom of the transom and hull on mine. Hopefully it wont be to bad.

http://www.hydrostreamforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=37&start=30#p419

77viper wrote: I will look into this a little further. Any progress on yours?

Chet, the gel will do what you intended it to do. Don't worry about it. Gel is poly, poly is pourus due to the styrene or something like that. It's only be a problem on submerged areas. Water gets through and under the gel and blisters. Common on boats that are in the water all the time. Years ago I bought a 15' sea king with a 50hp looper on it for cheap due to the blistering and chunks missing of the gel on the bottom. I rolled it over hogged it smooth, filled with marine tex and faired it, then coated with epoxy and it lasted many years on our rough Lake St. Clair.I bet that things still running around. That looper ran good. On your bottom repair, I'd use epoxy on that. How deep is it? It don't end does it!

The original hole isn't more that 5" by 1" I went past the hull from the inside and into the bad patch. Once I gorund off the old patch and got back to the original hull it's not bad at all.

I think I have a shop to paint the bottom but I need to have it done in about 1and a half weeks so I will be putting in some long hours. I have about 1/3 of one 1/2 done if that makes scence.

If I wasnt working all week and next week I would come give ya a hand but I am busting my *** so I can afford to take 2 weeks off after xmas to get in some boat deconstruction time.

Then hopefully end of feb I can start putting the core and transom back in and be boating by summer time sometime.

No problem Hippie I'm just plugging away. At this point I think I can have it ready.


Sounds like you have a plan. I Think I had about 20 hours in removing the core and grinding.

Looks great 77Viper. Keep the pictures coming. I'm getting close to the same core work on the VultureNo2.

77Viper - Looking at you picture facing the transom from the inside, I like the way you tied the stringers directly into the transom for suppport. I cannot tell from the pictures, but will you be using a jaclplate? If yes, is it glassed in between the stringers and the transom? On my Vulture, the stringeres end about 8 inches before the transom. I don't know if it was designed that way or modified? I'd like to tie the new ones together like you did, but will have a jackplate to worry about. I know I want to be able to switch to a bigger motor someday and don't want to have to worry about transom strength at that time. Would rather make sure I can handle it now while I have it apart. Your thoughts? Bill