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on a different note a picture of my truck in the memorial day parade

I'll give my usual advice.

Use the materials you are most familiar working with, install it carefully as if your life depended on it(because it does), and remember the words of Gelcoat Joe, "It ain't rocket science".

Just as in painting, preparation is 90% of the work. Grind it until it's good and gray with 36 or 24 grit, any other color means it's still got wood, crud, oil or something contaminating the surface. Let it get good and dry (remember polyester laminates absorb water). Clean it all up like you're gonna have dinner on it, and lay it up. Make absolutely sure your reinforcement material is TOTALLY sealed from air and water with resin, and you'll have a core that will last 30+ years regardless of material choice.

OK so i know you don't want the air pockets, i have read a little about a way to use a vacume to get all the air out. has anyone heard of this or how to do it? or just use the rollers?

Vacuum bagging involves placing a membrane over the laminate and sucking out the air. It removes air, pulls the new material tight to what you're trying to bond to, and gives a more consistant resin to reinforcement ratio (normally 50-50 by weight). It's better and more high tech, but I believe a perfectly serviceable job can be done by hand as well.

Ok thank you, ive spent hours and hours researching and everything is so biased you do not know what is right. and there are so many different ways to do the same damn thing, i guess find what i think is the simplest and go with it. I was told tho buy the guy that builds the tunnel hulls by me that i might not want to use bi axial cloth. He said that in certain situations it can be too strong and stiff compared to the rest off the hull that it could create a cracking point when the boat flexes and twists. he said to try to get it as close to the factory build as possible, just dont skimp on resin the the factory did. he took one look at my core and said he could tell how it got water.

That's good advice. If you beef up one area and make it much stiffer than the surrounding area, you pretty much guarantee it will crack along the shear line between the two.

So me and my wife got the boat off the trailer Friday night, and made some room for her car to park along side it cuz we been getting some nasty storms lately. Debunked the trailer yesterday and got the windshield off. I put that sucker right in my basement. Don't want to risk a runaway lawn mower or falling rake getting it. This morning my old man came over and we made a stand I guess you would call it. I have support on length wise on 6 ribs in the hull all together and made some long shims that fill the gap between the pad and the plywood it is sitting on, on the floor of my garage. Also made a box that is holding the nose up keep it planted solid on braces. I hope it is right. The only thing I wondered is I I let the pad hang off the ply wood so the very end it touching the concrete and the very start of the hook is on the edge of the plywood. So simply stated there is about a foot hanging off the ply wood.

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Last night i went and picked up a mid 80's mariner 150 oil injected for 500.00. Runs and came with a hot foot and controls and a 23p stainless prop. was about an hour drive but the guy was tired of it taking up space in his garage and just wanted to off it. i couldn't let that deal pass.

Nice - Are you going to have it looked over by a mechanic?

I got a friend who builds mercs. I think 3 motors he built hold speed records. I am going to have him look at it. He is really good and knows his stuff.

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