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If you're not registered, please consider doing so. It's easy - just click the "Register" link at the top
right corner of the page. Our forum needs members like you to contribute to the site in order to survive.
We are a community of boat lovers and Hydrostream enthusiasts here; we are happy to help anyone
who may need advice or guidance for their 'Stream; and we encourage members to offer their advice
and guidance to others as well. Thank you for visiting our forums, and please register.
We're better than Facebook.
Registering only takes a few minutes and you can do so by CLICKING HERE
If you are a member, don't forget to log in to take full advantage of the forum.
transom and recore??????
Re: transom and recore??????
IMO,it looks cool,but the splashwell will keep you drier
,,and be careful where you cut,measure 10 times,cut once,watch your vin# doesn't get cut up.

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Re: transom and recore??????
Dont slow down so fast.cajunmerc wrote:IMO,it looks cool,but the splashwell will keep you drier![]()

-Kevin
Project Vulture | Project Vector | Project Vamp | Project Vixen
The Vulture Wish List | Project CobraJet
1977 HydroStream Vulture - Worlds longest ongoing project.
1982 Hydrostream Vector
1982 Hydrostream Vamp
1973 Hydrostream Vixen
1976 CobraJet Jet Boat - Outboard conversion project
1976 Pontoon - aka The Family Truckster
Project Vulture | Project Vector | Project Vamp | Project Vixen
The Vulture Wish List | Project CobraJet
1977 HydroStream Vulture - Worlds longest ongoing project.

1982 Hydrostream Vector
1982 Hydrostream Vamp
1973 Hydrostream Vixen
1976 CobraJet Jet Boat - Outboard conversion project
1976 Pontoon - aka The Family Truckster
Re: transom and recore??????
Have another question. Is it ok to do transom and recore while its on the trailer? I don't have the garage space where I can take it off and leave it in the garage I would need to pull it in for the weekend to work on it and put it back out for the work week.
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- Site Admin
- Posts: 4002
- Joined: Mar 25, 2009 7:31 pm
- Location: Nowthen, MN
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Re: transom and recore??????
Thats how I did mine. If you do it that way just make sure you have good trailer bunks to support it. I have a good 4 bunk trailer with plenty of support so thats how I did it. In fact it has not been off the trailer in almost 3 years. lolsteve3340 wrote:Have another question. Is it ok to do transom and recore while its on the trailer? I don't have the garage space where I can take it off and leave it in the garage I would need to pull it in for the weekend to work on it and put it back out for the work week.
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-Kevin
Project Vulture | Project Vector | Project Vamp | Project Vixen
The Vulture Wish List | Project CobraJet
1977 HydroStream Vulture - Worlds longest ongoing project.
1982 Hydrostream Vector
1982 Hydrostream Vamp
1973 Hydrostream Vixen
1976 CobraJet Jet Boat - Outboard conversion project
1976 Pontoon - aka The Family Truckster
Project Vulture | Project Vector | Project Vamp | Project Vixen
The Vulture Wish List | Project CobraJet
1977 HydroStream Vulture - Worlds longest ongoing project.

1982 Hydrostream Vector
1982 Hydrostream Vamp
1973 Hydrostream Vixen
1976 CobraJet Jet Boat - Outboard conversion project
1976 Pontoon - aka The Family Truckster
Re: transom and recore??????
well I started gutting old core..... a lot was saturated but I have some questions. Is there an easier way than chipping away at core that is still clinging to hull? what do I do with low spots ( hull contour ) in hull? these were big voids / air pockets between core and hull. And last. some of the core that I have been chipping out has seemed to pull up the layer of csm that was put down before core was set in. What do i do with this? I just keep trying to laugh at myself for starting this project. good news is I did find Merton's fiberglass & marine supply 5 min from work
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Re: transom and recore??????
I use a long heavy pry bar and slide it on the hull then twist it once it gets under the core to chip it out. Some guys will use a air hammer to get under it and chip it out. In the end there isn't a real easy way top get it out.
For the low spots there are a couple things you can do. When laying out the core material you can lay it scrim side up or down to conform to the hull. you can also cut the scrim to make smaller pieces that will fit better. That and what ever you use to bond the core you can use a little more in the low spots.
I lay a layer of 1.5 or 2 oz csm on the hull then another wet layer under the core as I'm laying it in then I use resin and cabosil and milled fibers as a core bond.
I have heard good things about Mertons, I would stop in and talk to them about what to use and how to use it. If you have any other questions we are here to help.
For the low spots there are a couple things you can do. When laying out the core material you can lay it scrim side up or down to conform to the hull. you can also cut the scrim to make smaller pieces that will fit better. That and what ever you use to bond the core you can use a little more in the low spots.
I lay a layer of 1.5 or 2 oz csm on the hull then another wet layer under the core as I'm laying it in then I use resin and cabosil and milled fibers as a core bond.
I have heard good things about Mertons, I would stop in and talk to them about what to use and how to use it. If you have any other questions we are here to help.
Samari on s&f
Chet Olson
75 viper 2.4 200, 130 shot of NOS
91 vegas loaned out
79 vking project 2.5 280
Chet Olson
75 viper 2.4 200, 130 shot of NOS
91 vegas loaned out
79 vking project 2.5 280
Re: transom and recore??????
Thanks for the tip on using a big bar! Made life easy
I did go to mertons mon. Very nnice guy. Gave me a lot of advice and pointers. Btw there is a 87 valero for sale on wocester ma cl if antone interested. Not much info just price and couple pics
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Re: transom and recore??????
so while at the laundymat I was checking out some posts. Should I put strings in before core, or on top of core?
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[ Post made via Android ]

Re: transom and recore??????
I will say it's a personal preference, mine are all on top of the core but we did hippies on the hull. They were built each way I think depending if it was a odd or even day of the week.
Samari on s&f
Chet Olson
75 viper 2.4 200, 130 shot of NOS
91 vegas loaned out
79 vking project 2.5 280
Chet Olson
75 viper 2.4 200, 130 shot of NOS
91 vegas loaned out
79 vking project 2.5 280
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- Hydrostream know it all
- Posts: 513
- Joined: Feb 10, 2012 8:01 pm
- Location: Sitka Alaska / Okanogan,WA
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Re: transom and recore??????
There are a couple recore projects on the Hydrostream .org site under Feature topics. This is part 1 if the current one.
http://hydrostream.org/ArticleArchives/AlaskaViperResto.htm
The full post is here;http://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?199085-Yet-another-Viper-rebuild&highlight=
There are several ways to do your job. Everyone has their favorite method. I did mine the way our local boat builder suggested. I asked "why this way" on every aspect of the job and reported his reasons. To me they were valid so I went that way. Others may not agree and go in another direction.
If you use a pry bar, depending on the width, be carefull when you "pry". You could put the rounded part of the bar thru the bottom of the boat!! Yea, I've seen it. Also ,...remember the outer skin is thin and if it flexes too much prying against it,....the fiberglass fibers will fracture. Try to scrape rather than pry and you will be safer.
Rubbing your arms, face, and neck with baby powder before grinding works amazing. I have "0" itching with this method. Also a fan is awesome. Set it up full blast and start grinding working towards the fan.
Make sure you don't have the dust blow into your neighbors Subaru with open windows and black cloth interior (w/ baby seat).
......unless you want your *** chewed!!! 
http://hydrostream.org/ArticleArchives/AlaskaViperResto.htm
The full post is here;http://www.screamandfly.com/showthread.php?199085-Yet-another-Viper-rebuild&highlight=
There are several ways to do your job. Everyone has their favorite method. I did mine the way our local boat builder suggested. I asked "why this way" on every aspect of the job and reported his reasons. To me they were valid so I went that way. Others may not agree and go in another direction.

If you use a pry bar, depending on the width, be carefull when you "pry". You could put the rounded part of the bar thru the bottom of the boat!! Yea, I've seen it. Also ,...remember the outer skin is thin and if it flexes too much prying against it,....the fiberglass fibers will fracture. Try to scrape rather than pry and you will be safer.
Rubbing your arms, face, and neck with baby powder before grinding works amazing. I have "0" itching with this method. Also a fan is awesome. Set it up full blast and start grinding working towards the fan.
Make sure you don't have the dust blow into your neighbors Subaru with open windows and black cloth interior (w/ baby seat).


Ron Pratt
Okanogan, WA
Viper/ 2.5L 200 Merc (SOLD)
1991 "the last" Virage/ 15" 280
2003 9’ Mini Virage/ 15 hp Honda 4-stroke
1989 Voyager/ 300 Promax
1989 HST / 2.5L 200 Merc
http://www.prattcustoms.com
Okanogan, WA
Viper/ 2.5L 200 Merc (SOLD)
1991 "the last" Virage/ 15" 280
2003 9’ Mini Virage/ 15 hp Honda 4-stroke
1989 Voyager/ 300 Promax
1989 HST / 2.5L 200 Merc
http://www.prattcustoms.com
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