my first hydrostream

[Rut311969]

I second that .

[oldskier]

I don't think you got hurt on the price. Price a windshield, jack plate, steering and foot throttle and try and get 'em much cheaper than $700. Then add the fact that the grinding is done already.

I think one of us didn't have a 1975 Viper. Mine had the wide 'wings' and your's has the narrow ones. Does yours have the 'hook' in the last 3 feet of the pad?

Here's a pic comparing the two boats. Look at the angle at the stern out to the edge.

[Sonik]

The pics are a little deceiving Bernie. His is the same as yours and mine...taller wings areas for sure. Pic angle kinda plays tricks with the dimensions. Check your Hull ID on the starboard rear of the hull. last three digits should be 7...5...then a letter signifying the build month, if it is truly a '75. The splashwell is stepped through 74 and was changed to the smooth type starting in '75. And of course, as Bernie said, theres the hook/wedge in the pad that started in 75 as well.

Welcome to the board and grats on your purchase. Vipers are fun boats with V6's for sure...even baby motors like mine make for plenty of pucker factor as you're learning to drive it! I agree that the 3 liter will be too much for it weight wise. I have a 380lb 2 liter XR2 on mine with a pair of 6gal removable tanks and an Optima red top in the rear and mine sits pretty low in the a$$....See below. If I stand in the splashwell, (I'm 185lbs) it takes a little water over the wing areas and within an inch or so of taking water into the splashwell....so you can do the math on that.




Depending on how the hull is supported on the trailer, you will want to make sure that it is true and straight before you lay new core in becuase a hook or rocker in the bottom due to bunk pressure will make for an ill-handling boat that'll make you want to pull your hair out. Good luck!!!

EDIT: for comparison purposes....shots of early vs. later wing areas...

[fla.viper]

wow lost of info allready you guys are great! i checked the hull the last 3 digets ars 76j. does that make it a 76? the hull number matches the title, but it is titled as a 75. got a few more pics. i pulled the stringers out sunday. i need to do some finnish sanding but otherwise its time to move on to the front part of the core. as you can see from the pics, the previous owner sanded the hull in the back probally saveing at least a weekends worth of work. im thinking it will be alot easier to remove the front core if i remove the top deck, and im sure it will be easier to lay the new core. any advice on that would great. not sure what to look for when you say the hook. ive read about people removeing the hook. but i was going to cross that bridge after i striped the hull. lunch break is over gotta go thanks to all

[Sonik]

wow lost of info allready you guys are great! i checked the hull the last 3 digets ars 76j. does that make it a 76? the hull number matches the title, but it is titled as a 75. got a few more pics. i pulled the stringers out sunday. i need to do some finnish sanding but otherwise its time to move on to the front part of the core. as you can see from the pics, the previous owner sanded the hull in the back probally saveing at least a weekends worth of work. im thinking it will be alot easier to remove the front core if i remove the top deck, and im sure it will be easier to lay the new core. any advice on that would great. not sure what to look for when you say the hook. ive read about people removeing the hook. but i was going to cross that bridge after i striped the hull. lunch break is over gotta go thanks to all

That would make it a 1976 hull built in October of 1975. I remember there being a break in model years sometime in the middle of the year (I remember reading it on Marks site hydrostream.org) so everything built after that break would be tagged as the next model year...which makes sense in how you boat was stamped, but I'm not sure how it would have ended up titled as a '75. Maybe someone smarter than me can explain that process so we all know.

You mentioned splitting the boat.....couple things to keep in mind should you decide to go this route:

1. By nature of how the hull and deck were joined, once you split it, the original rubrail is a goner. The rubrail was rivetted onto the hull bottom joint first, then the deck was slid into place from the rear, and then capped across the transom.
2. If you do split the boat, ensure that the hull is WELL supported and that you don't allow the hull to deform without the cap on it. Several guys have taken measurements across the boat prior to splitting it and then putting these in place afterwards to maintain the geometry so when you get ready to drop the deck back on, you're not scratching your head because they don't line up anymore.

As far as the "hook" or "wedge" is concerned, lay a straightedge along the pad of the boat longitudinally. If the straightedge lies flat along the bottom(now that I know its a '76 model), it has been filled/removed/modified. If it doesn't lay flat, you will see what we mean when we talk about a hook or wedge in the pad. The wedge was added starting in the '75 model year and its purpose and effectiveness starts arguments all over the internet. Some guys swear they are better mannered and run faster with a flat bottom....some people leave them alone and there are several examples of wedge pad vipers running into the triple digits.

Best of luck.