76 vector restore

[VultureNo2]

Thanks. Great advise.

[kytekeith]

OK here is where I was earlier today, I have now finished grinding both sides to the same point under the bow. I have not done the pad or stringer area but will prep it in the next couple of days. Between the stringers I am not going to use any core just glass. Outside the stringers to floor level I will use core but not sure what yet. My stringers will be out of coosa The setback is the only coosa i have found localy comes in 7 x 4 sheets of various densities and thickness, The original stringers were 8 ft. long. Probably because plywood comes in 8 ft. sheets. I will use epoxy resin with a good cloth. Biaxle ,stitchmat not sure but will figure it out soon. I will go to eastern burlap in Norfolk Va. next week to pick up first round of supplies. But first I need to fix a few cracks in the hull. So now I am looking for advice on how to repair cracks.

The extent of my fiberglass work is not to large. I replaced the transom and floor in a boat 20 years ago and it went well.


While grinding my goal was to remove any evidence of the old core. I saw pits in the chop and tried to remove them but some were to deep for comfort . I would think that it would be ok to remove all chop but not neccessary. I don't know how thick the hull was before they started the chop gun . In som e places i took it down to a matt and at that point the blue color was strong.

[kytekeith]

Here is one spot that had a lot of voids in it. The chop is completely removed to where a layer of mat and the filled in strake are exposed. Somewhere in the mid 70's they began filling strakes with something to make the core easier to install. Does anybody know what was used? What ever it is it seems to be light and fairly strong.

[kytekeith]

Here is one of the spots that need repair.
inside view


Outer view shows someone had repaired before.

I have seen a how to on repair of a 1/8 inch thick piece of poly glass that showed cutting damaged material out ,blocking the outside as a form ,useing polyethylene as none stick surface against repair spot, then putting colored gel in first , filling void with layered cloth and topping with cloth larger then hole. 12 times the thickness of glass is used to determine how large overlap of new material over old. Again , does any know if this is correct for my situation???

[ccrick]

On the dark spot I would just feather it and core right over it. No big deal. Just make sure it wont leave a gap between the core and the hull. They used all kinds of fillers for the strakes too.
As far as the damage, where is it. Is that one of the strakes? Is it in a highly visable area?

[kytekeith]

Yes this damage is on a strake. The second strake up from the pad. This is where the floor was glassed in. My floor was lower than newer models.

[ccrick]

The right way would be laminants from the outside. A lot of water pressure on those strakes. Fill the strake from the inside of the strake with thickened poly or epoxy (what ever your using) and continue with the core. Then grind it out from the outside and laminate till smooth. It's looking good though

[kytekeith]

The right way would be laminants from the outside. A lot of water pressure on those strakes. Fill the strake from the inside of the strake with thickened poly or epoxy (what ever your using) and continue with the core. Then grind it out from the outside and laminate till smooth. It's looking good though

Thanks Rick, I had not planed on painting or regeling the boat and wanted to do repairs to the hull with mimimal exterior work. The damaged strake shown is the best of the three cracks in the hull. The other two are running across the strakes and the pad. It looks like I may need to re gel the hull after i finish repairs.

[VultureNo2]

Looks great! Keep up the good work. We are about at the same point. Bill

[kytekeith]

after a rew more hours of grinding i am very near point that i can start installing new stringers. I have exposed another crack needing repair. This one is on the pad about 3 feet from stearn. It is under the stringer .


what is the proper way to repair this one?
Do i need to cut any of the damage out now or gass over it finish the installing core and stringers then flip over and complete repair from outside.