Yes, my tank completely covers my bilge. But I really have no reason to get in there on a day to day basis. I run the plug on the outside of the hull. My tank will take a bit more than 5min to pull, but less than an hour if I need to service the bulge pump for some reason. The tank also sits up an i...

Without a low water pick up you're going to be very limited on performance props. ET's, SRX's and choppers, all work great on a Viking but will need a low water pickup. I would look into a Trophy or Tempest probably around 26" pitch and run it as high as you can without loosing water pressure. ...

Hats off to ya, Ron! Thats quite the project.

Dinvincell h80 is commonly used for a composite alternative for core.

Another late update, saw a best of 94.7 running a Quicksilver Lighting ET 30. Thats with a 4" setback Atlas jack plate, running prop-shaft centerline 1/2" above pad.

And a few random pictures. Top picture was taken when passing around 70mph, don't have a good side shot over 90 yet.

Kevin, everything they sell as 1708 at Express is 1808. Thats what I used on my entire build. Same stuff. Unless you're trying to be like Bill Foner and save every pound with 1208 haha.

You're going to need heat when working with fiberglass. Most resins have a minimum working temp somewhere around 60f. If you don't own any tools for the job plan on 3-5k for the core, transom, stringers, and floor.

I used CSM to bond the core into the hull. The 1708 was laid and cured then sanded/preped, then the CSM and core was set.

Looking really good so far!

I did a full layer of 1708 on the bottom of mine once I completed all the repairs before starting the core work.

Welcome, nice ride!