I agree!!! After looking up the Voyager, you would have to go thru the riser. For some reason, I was picturing a Valero. 8-)

The problem you are goingto run into is the fact that the front of the Voyager from the winsheild up is all molded glass . You might have to cut a hole in the riser for the front step to acess the bow eye .I no this sounds drastic but the hole can be patched back in . I would do this befor splitting the hullfrom the cap but if core is bad yuo might have to split her.

I repair kayaks and you can get alot done in a tight space if you are patient and think creatively.
For the bow eye, I would cut off from the outside and punch the the studs inward. Looking thru the two holes, scratch around to feel how soft the wood is. If it's relatively soft, chuck an allen wrench in a drill. Put the long part in the drill so you have a short leg paddle. Roll it into the hole between the two fiberglass skins and let er rip....slowly of course!! :up:

You can work up to bigger paddles to hog out the wood. Epoxy with filler makes a paste. Put in a large syringe, add a tube for deeper reach if needed and fill void created. (I say epoxy because fiberglass resin creates alot of heat that thick)

Redrill holes and install new bow eye. May have to tape every socket extention you own as well as your neighbors to feed the nut into the abyss to thread on. (You could stuff the nut into a stiff hose and try to get started also).

This is how I would replace the bow eye pad in an afternoon.

Just one idea to get the creative juices flowing.

[img]http://i33.tinypic.com/sm4qa0.jpg[/img]

Others with more experience will probably comment but the standard around this board is to [b]not[/b] split the boat. If yours was assembled like my Vegas, the rub rail was installed first, except for at the rear. Now, the deck and hull were slid together and the rub rail was fastened around the back. I liken it to putting my foot into my sandal and buckling the back strap. :thinking: :der: The rub rail is riveted on and, as far as I know, they are unique to Hydrostream.

Around here, it's considered easier to cut the splashwell for access to the transom.

BTW someone on here had a trick to deal with the bow eye...maybe they'll respond.

Good luck :up:

I have a 1983 Voyager that needs a new floor. The transom should probably also be replaced, and there is every chance that the core will need to be replaced as well. The bow eye also needs to be reinforced on the inside and I can't do much through the bow light hole(nor the access points in the bow). All these added together sort of points to taking the deck off.

Has anyone personally been involved with separating the hull and the deck on a Hydrostream bowrider? I have looked through Rut's rebuild and he was fortunate to have a solid transom and did not need any core work. I have seen the Virage on Youtube, but that is a different hull and I think it is attached differently. I am looking for some help here from someone who knows how early Voyagers come apart and go back together.